Sunday, 4 April 2010 — morning

Got up this morning, had a shower, tried to follow some horrible Russian comedy on the TV (I still find the Ukrainian channels a lot harder to follow), and went down to breakfast. A big buffet, and I could have gotten really carried away. But I just take a bit of scrambled eggs and sausages, some local form of blinis, a few cheeses and charcuterie, fruits, toast, and juice. Had to ask for coffee, which seemed weird. I forgot to try the Kashi. Back to the room and set up this blog. Checked the Lonely Planet recommended walking tour and decide to head out on a modified version. I think I’ll change from the slacks and nice shoes back into the black jeans and walking boots. (Lots of people were staring at me last night, and I am not sure what that’s about — I guess I don’t match the local template or something. Sod it, the jeans and boots work well for me.) On second thought, this is Easter Sunday, so I think I’ll keep the upscale garb.

There are a couple of sites near here where there used to be synagogues — one from the 17th and one from the 19th century, both destroyed by the Nazis. Thought I’d pass by for a visit… why not on Easter Sunday? Didn’t find a trace of them; will have to double-check my notes about their location. I can’t bear to stand on a corner, gawking at sights and studying a map; partly I’m embarrassed to display my tourist status, and partly a security thing. You know, try to blend in (fat chance) and don’t be a mark. So no synagogues, what about churches? Stepped inside one church to find a stunning baroque interior, but left quick to avoid the American with the camera and guidebook. Passed another church — the oldest in Lviv — which was closed, perhaps for repair? Walked past the arsenal museum (which was closed) and past the last standing parts of the town’s medieval fortifications. Wearing the dress shoes instead of the boots, I have had to walk carefully on the cobbles to avoid injury. I don’t know how folks scurry around here (mostly they don’t, but the type “a” folks do).

I forgot to mention that yesterday the maid service brought to my room an Easter bread in an ornate carton: kind of an emergency Easter basket that I could have taken for blessing if I’m stuck without a real one. And today we can eat it, I guess because Lent is over.

Tried lunch at an outdoor cafe in the Ploshcha Rynok; sat in the shade to get out of the hot sun, only to have a cold wind pick up. (They actually had a stock of blankets to give to people.) Took forever to get served, and then although there was borshch on the menu, the only food they had was sandwiches, ice cream, and some pastries. Got a coffee (excellent) and what was described to me in a limited English vocabulary as “apple cake”. Apparently if you don’t speak much English then apple=fruit and cake=any patisserie. Fortunately, in this case it was an excellent not-too-sweet cherry strudel. Five bucks was no problem; the service was almost nonexistent. (The Ukrainian friends-and-family  in a dozen seats around tables to my right ordered a bunch of things, which all came five to ten minutes apart: two chocolate ice creams, later on two vanilla, later a sundae, and so on…)

Walking back through the Ploshcha Rynok to the hotel, stopped to listen to four women singing something sounding like karelian pop gospel. Amplified, accompanied by MP3 tracks, very gospel-preachy-Christ-our-savior; strong singers and drawing a good crowd. This was on a small stage with a few JBL EONs, a small Mackie, and a laptop. I have yet to see what happens with the big stage. Beautiful weather, and the forecast is for the rain to hold off through tomorrow. Walking up one narrow street, there was construction scaffolding against a building; I crossed to the other side to pass by — I’ve seen the technical condition some of the cars are in, so I don’t for a minute trust a scaffolding tower!